When it comes to diamonds, few shapes have captured modern hearts quite like the princess cut diamond. Sleek, sophisticated, and dazzlingly brilliant, this cut has become one of the most popular choices for engagement rings — second only to the traditional round brilliant. But where did it come from, who created it, and how has it evolved over time?
This guide dives deep into the fascinating history of the princess cut diamond, exploring its origins, meaning, and transformation through the decades. Whether you’re a diamond enthusiast, a potential buyer, or just someone curious about fine jewellery, this article will answer every question you have about this iconic cut.
What Are Princess Cut Diamonds?
Before diving into history, it’s important to understand what a princess cut diamond actually is. The princess cut is a square or rectangular-shaped diamond known for its sharp corners and exceptional brilliance. It’s classified as a brilliant-cut stone, meaning it’s specifically designed to maximize light return and sparkle.
The princess cut typically has between 57 and 76 facets, depending on how it’s cut, allowing it to reflect light from all angles. It’s often praised as the perfect blend between the classic sparkle of a round diamond and the geometric elegance of an emerald cut.
According to data from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), princess cut diamonds account for roughly 30% of engagement ring sales, making them the most popular fancy shape worldwide.
When Were Princess Cut Diamonds First Made?
The princess cut diamond as we know it today was created in 1979, but its origins go back much further.
The first recorded version of a square-modified brilliant cut dates to the 1960s, when diamond cutter Arpad Nagy, a London-based jeweller, created a cut he called the “profile cut.” This design was an early attempt to produce a square diamond that maintained the brilliance of a round cut while minimizing the loss of rough diamond material.
A few years later, in 1971, South African cutter Basil Watermeyer introduced the Barion cut, another square diamond style that inspired future innovations. However, it was in 1979 that the modern princess cut was officially developed by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz in Los Angeles.
This new cut was specifically engineered to combine brilliance, efficiency, and modern aesthetics — and it quickly became one of the most revolutionary developments in diamond history.
Who Created the Princess Cut Diamond?
The modern princess cut diamond was created by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, two visionary diamond cutters who wanted to produce a square-shaped stone with the brilliance of a round diamond but with less waste.
Traditional round brilliant cuts typically lose about 50–60% of the rough diamond during the cutting process, while a princess cut can retain up to 80–85%, according to data from the International Gem Society.
This meant jewellers could produce a stunning, sparkly diamond that was more affordable and more sustainable due to higher yield from the rough stone.
Their innovation quickly caught the attention of both jewellers and consumers — and by the 1980s, the princess cut had become a symbol of modern elegance.
Why Were Princess Cut Diamonds Made?
The princess cut diamond was made to solve a long-standing challenge in diamond cutting: creating a square or rectangular stone that could rival the brilliance of a round cut.
Before its invention, square-shaped diamonds such as the Asscher cut or emerald cut were known for their geometric beauty but lacked the intense sparkle people loved in round brilliants.
The princess cut changed that. Its unique faceting pattern — with vertical and diagonal facets designed to reflect light efficiently — gave it a brilliance level nearly identical to round stones.
At the same time, the princess cut offered a modern and edgy look, appealing to a new generation of buyers who wanted something elegant yet different.
In short, the princess cut diamond was made to blend tradition with innovation — a perfect mix of sparkle, efficiency, and modern style.
How Did the Princess Cut Get Its Name?
The name “princess cut” was chosen intentionally to evoke beauty, sophistication, and timeless appeal. It symbolized a cut fit for royalty — a stone with grace and presence.
While the original “profile cut” created by Arpad Nagy in the 1960s laid the groundwork, it was Ambar and Itzkowitz who renamed and refined it into the princess cut we know today.
The romantic name helped market the diamond effectively, especially during the 1980s and 1990s when engagement ring trends leaned heavily toward classic yet distinctive designs.
It’s also worth noting that the name aligned perfectly with its target audience: buyers looking for something regal and glamorous without the premium price tag of a round brilliant diamond.
Has the Princess Cut Diamond Changed Over Time?
Yes, the princess cut diamond has evolved significantly over the decades.
When first introduced, princess cut diamonds had simpler faceting patterns, but as cutting technology advanced, diamond cutters began experimenting with computer-aided precision cuts to enhance brilliance and symmetry.
Modern princess cuts now feature more facets and refined proportions, resulting in better light dispersion and fire than ever before.
Furthermore, the introduction of lab-grown diamonds has made princess cuts even more accessible. Lab-grown versions share the same optical and physical properties as mined stones but are often 30–40% less expensive.
Today, you can find princess cut diamonds in a wide range of settings — from solitaires and halos to intricate vintage-inspired designs. The shape’s versatility ensures it remains a top choice for those seeking brilliance with a contemporary edge.
Are Princess-Cut Diamonds Still Popular Today?
Absolutely. The princess cut continues to be one of the top three most sought-after diamond shapes globally.
According to a 2023 report from The Knot, one in four engagement rings purchased in the past decade featured a princess cut diamond. It remains particularly popular among younger buyers who appreciate its clean lines and modern aesthetic.
The cut also represents excellent value for money — since it wastes less rough diamond, you typically get 10–30% more diamond for the same price compared to a round brilliant.
Conclusion
The princess-cut diamond represents the perfect union of brilliance, modernity, and innovation. From its origins in the 1960s to its rise in the 1980s and continued popularity today, the princess cut has proven that beauty and practicality can coexist.
Created to maximise sparkle while preserving diamond weight, this cut embodies efficiency and elegance. Whether you’re drawn to its sharp symmetry, affordability, or royal name, the princess cut diamond remains one of the most iconic and enduring choices in the world of fine jewellery.
For those looking for a diamond that is timeless yet modern, brilliant yet bold, the princess cut is an exquisite choice that continues to shine through every decade.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. When was the princess-cut diamond invented?
The modern princess cut was officially created in 1979 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, though earlier square cuts date back to the 1960s.
2. Why is it called the princess cut?
The name was chosen to reflect elegance and sophistication — a diamond shape “fit for a princess.”
3. Are princess-cut diamonds more affordable than round diamonds?
Yes. Because they retain more of the original rough diamond, princess cuts typically cost 10–30% less than round brilliants of the same carat and quality.
4. Do princess-cut diamonds sparkle as much as round diamonds?
Almost. While round brilliants have the highest light return, a well-cut princess diamond delivers nearly the same brilliance and fire.
5. Are princess-cut diamonds good for engagement rings?
Absolutely. They combine brilliance with a contemporary geometric look, making them ideal for those who want something classic yet distinctive.