When it comes to diamonds, few cuts balance vintage elegance and modern glamour quite like the Asscher cut diamond. Recognised for its mesmerising depth and distinctive shape, the Asscher cut has become a timeless favourite among jewellery lovers who appreciate refinement and character.
In this guide, we’ll explore what Asscher cut diamonds are, how they’re made, where to buy them, and whether they’re worth investing in. By the end, you’ll have everything you need to confidently choose — or simply admire — this stunning diamond cut.
What Are Asscher Cut Diamonds?
The Asscher cut diamond is a square-shaped diamond with deep step cuts, cropped corners, and a high crown, giving it a captivating “hall of mirrors” effect. When you look into an Asscher cut diamond, you’ll see an almost hypnotic pattern of reflections that draw your eyes inward — a signature feature of this elegant shape.
This cut was first developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, a Dutch diamond cutter from the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. The Asscher family became world-famous after cutting the Cullinan Diamond, the largest rough diamond ever discovered.
The cut reached peak popularity in the 1920s during the Art Deco era, thanks to its geometric symmetry and vintage flair. Today, Asscher cut diamonds are enjoying a strong revival, with engagement ring searches for this cut increasing by over 40% since 2020, according to a Brides Magazine jewellery report.
Unlike brilliant cuts (which focus on sparkle), the Asscher cut celebrates clarity and depth. The clean lines and step-like facets highlight a diamond’s internal beauty rather than surface sparkle.
How Are Asscher Cut Diamonds Made?
Creating an Asscher cut diamond requires precision and skill. Each facet must be carefully aligned to produce its symmetrical, mirror-like appearance. Here’s how they’re made:
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Selecting the rough diamond – Only high-clarity rough stones are chosen, as inclusions are more visible in step cuts like the Asscher.
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Planning and shaping – Expert cutters plan the dimensions using 3D mapping to maximise brilliance and carat yield.
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Cutting the facets – Traditional Asscher cuts have 58 facets, while the modern “Royal Asscher Cut” has 74 facets for enhanced light reflection.
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Polishing and finishing – The stone is then polished to highlight its crisp edges and symmetrical lines.
Because of this meticulous process, Asscher cuts typically retain less carat weight from the original rough diamond compared to other shapes. However, what’s lost in size is gained in elegance — an Asscher diamond’s play of light is unmatched in sophistication.
Should You Buy Asscher Cut Diamonds?
If you value timeless elegance and geometric beauty, then yes — the Asscher cut is a fantastic choice.
Unlike round brilliants, which emphasise sparkle, Asscher cuts exude sophisticated depth and a vintage charm that never goes out of style. Here are a few reasons to consider buying one:
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Unique aesthetic – Perfect for those who want something distinct yet classic.
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Elegant symmetry – Its balanced proportions appeal to those who love clean, structured designs.
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Versatile in settings – Looks beautiful in solitaires, halos, or vintage-inspired art deco settings.
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Durable shape – Cropped corners make it less prone to chipping than square cuts like princess diamonds.
One thing to note: because of its deep pavilion and step-cut design, Asscher cut diamonds can appear smaller than other cuts of the same carat weight. Most buyers offset this by choosing a slightly larger carat size.
Where Can You Buy Asscher Cut Diamonds?
When buying an Asscher cut diamond, it’s essential to purchase from a reputable retailer that offers certified stones and transparency in grading. Look for diamonds graded by trusted institutions like the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) or IGI (International Gemological Institute).
Top places to buy Asscher cut diamonds:
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Blue Nile – Extensive selection with 360° views and GIA certification.
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James Allen – Ideal for comparing Asscher cuts side by side in high-resolution video.
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Brilliant Earth – Offers both natural and lab-grown Asscher cut diamonds with ethical sourcing.
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Tiffany & Co. – Renowned for exquisite craftsmanship and timeless designs.
Pro Tip: When choosing an Asscher cut, prioritise clarity (VS2 or better) and colour (G or higher) since inclusions and tints are more visible in step-cut diamonds.
Are Asscher Cut Diamonds a Good Investment?
Yes — especially for those who appreciate rarity and design heritage.
While round and oval cuts dominate the market, Asscher cut diamonds have a cult following among collectors and connoisseurs. Their association with the Art Deco era and meticulous craftsmanship ensures steady value retention.
According to a Rapaport diamond report (2024), vintage-inspired cuts like the Asscher have seen a 15% increase in demand over the past five years, particularly in engagement rings and bespoke jewellery.
However, as with all diamond investments, value depends on the Four Cs — cut, colour, clarity, and carat — as well as certification. Opting for a Royal Asscher Cut or vintage piece with provenance can further enhance investment potential.
Should You Wear Asscher Cut Diamonds as Jewellery?
Absolutely. The Asscher cut diamond isn’t just a collector’s gem — it’s also incredibly wearable.
Its geometric shape gives it a modern edge while retaining vintage elegance. It pairs beautifully with both platinum and yellow gold, making it versatile for engagement rings, pendants, or earrings.
Thanks to its sturdy corners, it’s more resistant to chipping than sharp-edged cuts, meaning it’s suitable for daily wear.
Asscher cuts look particularly stunning in:
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Solitaire settings – Letting the diamond’s symmetry take centre stage.
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Halo settings – Adding extra brilliance without overpowering the central stone.
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Three-stone rings – Accentuated by baguette or trapezoid side stones.
Who Should Wear Asscher Cut Diamonds?
Asscher-cut diamonds are perfect for those who value sophistication, balance, and timeless design. They suit people who love understated luxury and appreciate details that others might overlook.
They’re also ideal for:
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Those who adore vintage or Art Deco jewellery styles.
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People who prefer a clean, structured aesthetic.
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Buyers seeking a diamond that stands out subtly, not through sheer sparkle but through depth and symmetry.
Celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Jessica Alba, and Zooey Deschanel have all been spotted wearing Asscher cut diamonds — proof of their enduring allure.
Conclusion
The Asscher cut diamond is a masterpiece of precision, elegance, and history. It’s not the flashiest cut, but it offers something rarer — timeless sophistication and character.
From its origins in early 20th-century Amsterdam to its resurgence in modern luxury jewellery, the Asscher cut has maintained a reputation for refined glamour. Whether you’re buying one as an engagement ring, investment, or heirloom piece, you’re not just purchasing a diamond — you’re owning a piece of artistry.
When chosen wisely, an Asscher cut diamond promises beauty, brilliance, and value that will never go out of style.
FAQs
1. What’s the difference between an Asscher cut and an emerald cut diamond?
Both have step cuts, but Asscher cuts are square with cropped corners, while emerald cuts are rectangular. Asschers also have more facets, enhancing their brilliance.
2. Are Asscher-cut diamonds cheaper than round diamonds?
Generally, yes — Asscher cuts can be 20–30% less expensive per carat than round brilliants of similar quality.
3. Do Asscher-cut diamonds sparkle less?
They have a more subdued sparkle compared to brilliant cuts but make up for it with a deep, reflective “hall of mirrors” effect that’s utterly captivating.
4. Can Asscher-cut diamonds be lab-grown?
Yes! Lab-grown Asscher cut diamonds are eco-friendly and 30–40% more affordable than mined ones while offering identical beauty and structure.
5. What is the ideal setting for an Asscher cut diamond?
Solitaire and halo settings are most popular, as they highlight the diamond’s symmetry and depth beautifully.